This could be a long one. So much happens everyday and I can't rely on my memory. I took the 6 am bus from Quito to Otavalo-$6. I haven't taken a bus in 33 years. It was a very nice ride. I had never hailed a taxi until I came here! Simple. I was very early to arrive at San Rafael and the Balcon Del Lago hosteria. At first I was a little reluctant when I saw my accomodation. Very rustic brick cabin. Beautiful view and fireplace convinced me to stay. Jessica and Efrain could not have been more welcoming. I met their 3 sons and another boy named Andres. Another couple was staying here from Argentina, Eduardo and Olga. Olga helped me with my vocabulary the entire stay. After breakfast we all climbed in a truck for a tour of the lake, water falls (Peguche), Cotacachi, and Cuicocha crater lake. What a day. Olga and I hit it off well. It rained most the day but it was still beautiful. Lunch was plentiful and simple-chicken and rice. Lunch is usually around 2-ish. I skip dinners because they eat around 8-9pm. Im in bed.
I took a long walk up the hill in the back of the property. I heard what I thought were gun shots so I
turned around. Not many birds. Efrain explained that they were not gun shots but rockets. The Inti Raymi festival is starting. Sapa Inca Pachacuti started the Festival of the Sun.I am sorry I am going to miss the fun but I will be in the Amazon. We also visited Lechero, which I thought was going to be a milk farm or something. It is a tree on a hill that is deeply revered.
http://finaltransit.com/blog/2011/11/09/el-lechero-laguna-san-pablo-otavalo/
We vent to Parque Condor where they rehab raptors. Closed. I bribed the Danish owner with a donation and we got a police escort through the park. Harpy eagles and condors. They released one last month and I saw it on TV. Condors are huge. I am going to Antisana next week where I will see wild ones.
The kids, and the dad, were absolutely amazed by the skywatch app on my ipad. They had fun with my scope as well. I discovered writing on the side of the volcano. Graffiti, I guess. We had fun trying to figure out what it said-the name of a local band. Yesterday I hugged them all and said bye. My bill was $42 for two nights, breakfasts, lunches, 4 drinks. Pedro drove me to downtown Otavalo. He is driving me and the Argentines to Quito on Friday, tomorrow. What an accent the Argies have. Calle
is pronounced cayshay.
So far I have bought 2 tee-shirts and a pair of gloves. I need to ship shit home so I have more room in my bags to take stuff home. The markets in Otavalo are mind boggling. This is the most interesting
city in the world. They are Quichua (Quechua in the south). The language is difficult to listen too as
the words all seem to flow together. They don't like having their picture taken so what I have is taken from afar. The fruit is humongous and the meats a little smelly. The textiles are the most colorful you could imagine. I'm going shopping today. The native people here keep to themselves. They greet you and are polite but I can tell they would rather not deal with me-unless I buy something. Their faces show their history and hard work. I love them and am moved by them.
I watched the Ecuador/England (2-2) game yesterday. The indios are not futbol fans. No one in the bar. I am sure Plaza Fuch was packed.
I roamed the city at dusk and found a park-side cafe that offered a coffee with rum. He made me an Ecuadorian Glogg! It was delicious. Spices I didn't know existed. I had three. The plaza lit up at night
with changing colors. Even the Catholic Church was ablaze. Fascinating. Then I went back to Bar Bohemia and met the owner. He played some Mercedes Sosa for me. I had a lengthy conversation with him and I was so proud of my spanish skills. He has a house on the coast for $100 a week that is stunning. I might go. The coast is a 4 hour drive from here. We'll see.
I know I am forgetting something. Asking a lady to 'show me your boobies' didn't go over well. Not a birder I guess. She said she had pictures. Beeotch.
771 birds on my life list.