My Vilcabamba Home

My friend Gary was very kind in allowing me to live in his townhouse for three weeks. Loja is a smaller city with less to keep the average 'Merican content and ocupado. I attended the fair and found the people to be very content. The city is very walkable and ,indeed, I must have walked four or five miles everyday. The most evident difference between the USA and Ecuador is that the indigenous people here are everywhere. Their culture is unique and their faces show an amazing history. In the US we swept our natives under a terrible rug and they can't resurface. There are different 'tribes' here and one of the most prevalent around me are the Saraguro. One of the few to never be conquered by the Incas.They are very commanding in appearance. You notice them quickly. I wish I could sit and talk with a few of them as I have so may questions. They are protesting a lack of governmental attention. They have a strong voice. I am never sure how mixed bloods truly view the native peoples of Ecuador, but I know there is a little contempt. I am in constant contact with the true Americans. They work hard. They aren't drunks like our natives ( sorry redskins). They produce an amazing variety of food and crafts. They have a pride which has never been stolen. They make Ecuador so much more interesting, as they have always been the salt of the earth. (As I write, two amazing insects are crawling on my screen. For the first time in many years I have something to talk to in bed!)

I have been very fortunate in meeting people. Darnell Dunn, an 31 year old dark skinned Bostonian has been a true blessing. He is in real estate http://www.abecuador.com and one of the most professional people I have ever met. The owner of Zarza Brewing ( thanks Greg) gave me his contact information and when I came to Vilcabamba he mentioned a house I might like to see. We walked from the plaza and into a walled garden. I never would have imagined that Vilcabamba could be a home for me, but here I are. I am surrounded by 24 citrus trees in a constant state of bloom. More oranges and tangerines than I could ever consume. And birds that love their sweet taste and the insects they attract. Yellow-tailed orioles sing every morning, right after the 100 or so roosters which begin at 4:30 am! Southern yellow grosbeaks and blue-grey tanagers feed off the fruits in the trees. Rumi Wilco is a 10 minute walk from home. My landlord, Pablo Jaramillo, has been very attentive to fixing things around the house, so far. Last night he brought an electrician and they installed very nice fixtures.When I have the front gate open people peer into the yard and smile. It is a beautiful house. Each evening I meet new locals, mostly gringos, and enjoy listening to their stories. Already people say hello to me on the street.

I slipped and fell in the shower and hurt my back rather severely. Luis is coming next week and we are off to the Jocotoco Reserves in southern Ecuador. I have been in pain but I think I can make it. I practiced by climbing one of the high trails here this morning. It takes a lot to bring me down and I am determined to go birding. Tapichalaca and Jorupe reserves are too good to miss, especially having Luis with me. The locals have some good medicine for me! I will be having a party soon and grilling meat of some sort. Monika from Switzerlandia is coming by soon to help me clean cob-webs from up high. A house cleaner here costs about $3-$4 dollars and hour. SOLD!

A flock of chestnut-collared swifts are flying overhead like fighter jets. I love watching them. Blue and white swallows are looking fro nesting sites and I hope a pair chooses my porch. Cotopaxi has been quiet lately. I guess I will miss the whales at the coast as they will be leaving in a few weeks. The Esmeraldas hummingbird will replace them. There is always a reason to go to the beach!