Sunday, February 21, 2016

Back in Loja

I took the bus from Olon to Guayaquil and saw a few Chilean flamingos in the salt ponds along the road. Always birdwatching. Saw a kelp gull, as well. In Guayaquil I caught a car service to Cuenca and was in my hotel by 4 pm. The room just above Inca Lounge, of course. Stayed a week and watched the Super Bowl with way too many gringos. Disgusting half-time show all about race. When I woke up Monday there was no traffic. I thought it was Sunday. Carnaval holiday, no van service to Loja. I caught a bus and I believe the driver was drunk. The chica next to me played with her phone and had sharp elbows. I growled at her and she moved to another seat. In Loja I checked into Hotel Carrion and got the same room I have had in the past. I asked for the room and as there was no one in town, all businesses closed for the holiday, the hotel was empty. Loja has a very strong middle class and everyone goes to vacations homes or warmer climates for the holiday. I called Sharon and Scott McNeil and made arrangement to see the apartment they are letting me live in while they are in the States. They have been wonderful friends whom I met just before I moved to Vilcabamba. They are remodeling a house near Vilca and we get together for a few (several) beers when we can. Their apartment is in the best neighborhood in Loja and has a great view. I am so grateful for the friends I have, everywhere.
I immediately search out places nearby to go birding. And there are a couple great spots within a 10 minute walk. It has been raining almost everyday but I have enjoyed a few walks in the sunshine. No new birds but a few I haven't seen in a while. A black-chested buzzard eagle flew past the window a few minutes ago. A speckled hummingbird hangs out along the flowing quebrada just up the road. I paid a taxi driver $12 to take me up to the ranger station at Podocarpus National Park, Cajanuma entrance. It rained and I was cold and damp for 6 hours but it was worth it to see a Chestnut-naped antpitta scratching for worms in the cloud forest. I met one of the rangers who has offered to take me up to the laguna. It is a steep, long trail that I would not do alone. There is a hummingbird that lives up there, Neblina metaltail, which I need to see. It is getting harder and harder to find new species of birds. I have to go deeper, higher and further to see new species. It is more difficult, more time-consuming and, at times, more expensive to go to these remote places. But I am just gonna fucking do it. As soon as the rains let up in a month. The Galapagos are tempting but I need to get a low airfare to make it worth-while. Like a $220 airfare RT. Then, maybe. Money is getting tight. I will also head to Peru in a couple months. By bus. I read and article in NYT about Uruguay. It is probably the best country in S.A. Another temptation.
I went to Vilcabamba for the weekend and saw friends. I will probably take an apartment there when I feel the need to settle down. Either there or Otavalo. I'm not making decisions right now. My sisters, Jan and Sally, are coming to visit March 16-26. I will fly up to Quito and we will tour a few of my favorite places. I will probably take them to Mindo. Mindo is birders heaven and popular with the amateurs. I have been all around Mindo but not to the little tourist town. It is 2 hours from Quito and in the cloud forest, my favorite habitat. Jan was in Quito in 1974. A lot has changed! The three of us will have a great time. I will have decisions to make after they leave. More on that at a later date.
Last night I found a new bar, The Viejo Minero, the oldest bar in Loja. This might be my new hangout. Perfect little hole-in-the-wall. The craft beer place, Zarza Brewing, is just too expensive and I don't like the beer. I like Club and Pilsener and they just serve their own beer. It is also a friendlier atmosphere at Minero. I'll go back tomorrow.
The clouds have descended and the sunshine is gone for the day. Please, God, take that fucker Kanye West and gives us back David Bowie. Thanks!

My Smugmug Page

                                                                     Podocarpus Trail

 

                                                             Loja in the distance

                                                                 Cloud Forest

                                                              Super Bowl Party at Inca