In an Instant

I met with Scott McNeil in Cuenca and we rode together on the Izhcayluma shuttle to Vilcabamba. I figured I might as well stay at Izhcayluma for a few days until I figure out my next move. The climate and scenery here are a perfect combination of warmth and beauty. I went birding in the hills behind Izhcayluma and found all the birds I was looking for. During this time of year the mountains are all verdant and lush. They will be brown again in a few months when the rains stop falling. I put the word out that I was looking for an apartment and immediately found a few to inspect. I have settled on a 2 bedroom casita which is minimally furnished, but comfortable. I have a yard, security, a view and birds. There are Andean Tinamou's in my backyard. My landlady is a New Zealander from Lima. I pay $265. I will stay here a few months. I finally found the Pacific parrotlets that live in the valley. They are a small, 5 inch green-blue ball of feathers which like the drier side of the valley.

Last night the moon shone through my skylight into my kitchen. Last month, at El Crater Hotel, my bed was directly below a skylight and the moonlight was like a tractor-beam shinning down on me. The full moon here is so silver and bright. Next full moon I want to be somewhere special. Maybe the coast of Perú.

As I lay in bed reading last Saturday night, I heard a strange noise. It was a low hum of vibration. Then it became a rattling sound growing louder. Then the floor moved, the bed moved and the roof shook. I ran outside to see the Cosmos flowers swaying side to side. It lasted about 30 seconds and stopped abruptly. My initial thoughts were of awe, fear and confusion. All at once a wave of varying emotions. Cry? Laugh? I got dressed and called my sister Sally and told her that we just had an earthquake and it seemed very bad, but I was safe. I pulled up USGS and within 8 minutes saw what had happened. 400 miles northwest was a 7.4 near Muisne, where I had been last January. Then they upgraded it to 7.8 and aftershocks followed. My thoughts flashed back to Mompiche, Canoa and Ayampe. Were folks I had met there safe? I went back to bed.

The news in the morning was emotionally crippling. I cried. Pedernales gone. Bahia de Caraquez gone. Portoviejo gone. Imagine you are on the beach watching the sunset. It is Saturday night and you hear music coming from a home nearby. You smile. In two minutes everything you have will be gone and buried in rubble. Your child might be dead. You, might be dead. Every aspect of your life will change in a matter of seconds. The ground moves so violently that you cannot walk. Now, what you hear is an eerie quietness. Then the screams begin, the crying amplifies. Calls for help. What do you do? 

There have been more then 28 aftershocks this week. All in the same area. Everything in Ecuador has just changed. I have cried each day. I can do nothing. Who do I give money too? I was asked to help in an environmental capacity but heard nothing back from officials. Ecuador is crippled. It took several days before I heard from people I know near ground-zero. All alive but some badly injured.

I am very distraught. There is nothing I can do. In the last week the people of Ecuador have proved themselves resilient and compassionate. Help has flowed to where it is needed most. So I hear. It will take years to recover. My heart aches for Ecuador. I hope I can contribute to the recovery.

In June the whales will return to to coast. I will visit Ayampe, San Lorenzo and Salinas. I am considering a trip to Peru. Maybe 2 weeks of hard-core birding. Marvelous spatuletail in Chachapoyas. Great grebe along the coast. I will probably go alone as I can't count on anyone but me. I am fortunate. My days are numbered, also. But at least I know it is coming.

                        My Smugmug Page

....................