I don't know what is is about this latitude, but it induces you to take a siesta after lunch. I eat a big meal at 1pm and take a nap from 2-3. I have never taken naps but everyone here does and now I do to. Strange.
Today I was eating lunch and a young (8) boy came to my table and wanted money. He was carrying shoe shine equipment but I don't have shoes that need shining. I said 'no' and he turned on the sad eyes and desperation. I gave him $1.50 and within 2 minutes his friends came to me. "No, no me molestes". They went away.  A 7 year-old girl came later and wanted to sell me Certs which looked like they had been rolled down a hill and re-packaged. " No, Gracias". They know how to beg, they are professional. The indigenous ladies are very professional. They sell candy and cigs and are respected. They are allowed, as are the children, to sell (beg) anywhere. I was eating lunch and a lady whom looked like she just came off the street in West Palm walked up to me selling candy and the restaurant chased her off.
The 'Indians" here are respected but looked down on. They wear long pants with a skirt, usually colorful, and a bolo hat. 5' tall at most.  The men don't beg, they make the women do it. The social structure here is extremely striated. Spaniard heritage is on top. Mestizos are next and are found mostly in the Sierra. The indigenous are looked down on but respected, somewhat. Mulatto's are few. Blacks  are on the bottom. Asians are here in small numbers, usually to sell their knowledge in engineering. An Indian-Asian- lady was with me on my tour of Mitad Del Mundo today and every time the guide would mention a plant or cooking she would intercede with "we don't do it like that in India". I said in Spanish, which she didn't understand, 'when is the next flight back to India?'. The guide laughed. He gave me an extended tour after she left.
I am lucky that I end up staying in locations which are very central to everything that is happening. Plaza Fuch is a 5 minute walk and filled with Bohemians, very much like Little 5 Points in Atlanta. They all have a small backpack on and the blond German girls look like they have never worn make-up and just walked out of a Hans Holbein painting.
 I can't shop for clothes here as no one is my size.I walk in a store and it looks like the little boys section at Sears. I truly weight twice as much as the average man on the street.
When you walk in any establishment someone is there to greet you. If it is a store like a drug store or clothing, someone follows your every move. There are always security guards. The clerk at a outfitters clothing shop followed me closely and I know he wanted to laugh because they didn't have a damn thing that fit me, pants or shirts. In a restaurant someone greets you and takes you to a table. No one sits at a bar here. Then they are gone for 10 minutes. They take your order and if you order just a drink it takes another 8 minutes. Food takes 20. Pay the tab, another 10 minutes. Prices are never what they say or what is printed. Usually a dollar more or less. Change is rarely exact.
But I don't mind at all. I have learned to relax. Everywhere you look something is blooming. The aromas change minute by minute. You smell flowers, woods, rain, something wonderful cooking.
Everything grows here because the temperatures hardly change all year. Fuschia, palms, strange trees. It is tropical and montane all at once. Today reminded me of and Indian Summer day in late October. Very blue sky and white cotton clouds. Cool breeze down from the mountains.
I should have learned this stuff 30 years ago.
 Buenas noches, amigos.

Last night the thunder, lightening and rain was tremendous. I awaken to a clear sky and bells ringing from Our Lady de Guadelupe. I take a cab from Stubel Suites to my next hotel,  Vieja  Cuba, near Mariscal. My room isn't ready so I leave my bags and take a taxi to the historic 'old' Quito. Police and guards are everywhere. I feel very safe. My first stop is the Basillica de Voto Nacional. $1 to enter and I can take pictures ( Guapulo church didn't allow it but I got some anyway and did not get struck by lightening).
All of these churches were built from 1540's to about 1650. The paintings are crumbling on the walls. The gold leaf is on every altar. I am overwhelmed by catholics and  their altars. No puny methodist crap here. Jesus has a horrified look on his face. Mary smiles. What did Spain do to these people? I find some of the pictures to be frightening. I felt like confessing. The sun shone through the stained glass. I think they have a comfy chair in the basement. I confess! I confess!
 I walked the narrow colonial streets and came to the Plaza Grande. I became extremely emotional by what I was seeing. Bright sunshine, blue sky, Pichincha with snow on top, native folks selling stuff I couldn't identify. Old men dressed in slacks and jackets and always a hat. Children  are all smiles. Music spreads through the Plaza. I am actually here. I hear horses and see the Guards in imperial dress riding in front of the Palace. I just missed President Correa on his way to the National Assembly for his address to the nation. He is now on every TV and speaks for almost 3 hours. The peasantry could care less.
 I wanted to buy something from every old lady I saw. They sing the price of what they are selling. A very kind old man wanted to be my guide for just a few dollars. I declined very politely. He complimented my Spanish. I am getting better. They speak with a lilting tone in the Sierra. Quito is the most beautiful city I have ever seen. It is a world heritage city, officially.
I got an email from Daniel, owner at Gringo on the Beach. He saved the tropicbird and is feeding it continuously. He is a nice man. He can teach it to fly.
I am having bird withdrawals. I can't birdwatch in the city. I must....go......birding.....soon...

San Lorenzo was very relaxing. Very nice beach. Found a young red-billed tropicbird which had fallen off a cliff on Isla Plata on the beach. It was still there when I left but I know it could't survive.
Manta was interesting. Ate at KFC and loved it. Nice museum with strange vessels of anthropomorphic carvings. All had erections. Things haven't changed much in 2,400 years because the men are still very small. I know because I see them everyday pissing on the street. Woman too. They just whip it out and piss anywhere. Today I saw and old woman squatting behind a statue of  Francisco de Orellana. She must have had a lot of coffee. She smiled at me and pulled them up and asked me which stairs to take down to the church in Guàpulo. I told her I wasn't sure and I was taking the road-the stairs were way too steep for me. The older women (native) have the most fascinating faces. Some wear black in mourning of Atahualpa. He's been dead 481 years.
 The flight from Manta to Quito cost $43 on an Airbus A310. Flew next to Cotopaxi volcano. Fucking amazing volcanos in the Andes. Taxi to Hotel Quito cost $25. Prices have gone up in Quito. No more cheap din-dins here. Had 2 drinks at a bar called Cats for $22. Geez. Ecuadorians automatically get reduced prices on everything. Gas is $1.63 a gallon here.
Am at Stubel Suites tonight and going to Hotel Viejo Cuba tomorrow for several days. The valley below my window is the trail Francisco Pizarro took to the Amazon. I wish he were there now as I would gladly piss on him.
I am looking for an apartment for a month but I am just not sure what to do. I Love Quito and haven't been to the old part of the city yet.  2.7 million people live in this valley. The streets are very clean.
I walk everywhere and have lost about 10 pounds. I couldn't walk up the hill from the church today so I hailed a taxi. First time I didn't have one called for me. $1.50 to get me up the hills. I am adjusting to the altitude of 9,350 ft. Headache went away. Pure chocolate helps also and they make the best in Ecuador.
 A thunderstorm blew into the valley last night. Watching lightning at this altitude is phenomenal.
I need to head outside the city for birds. 118 new species so far. Black-tailed trainbearer hummingbirds are little gems in the air.
Buenos noches

Update-my history is a bit off. Not sure Pizzaro came thru here. Orellana died at the mouth of the Amazon. Need to read up on this. Church bells rang at 5 am this morn.

Caught a ride with a couple from Missouri to Puerto Cayo and stayed at Sanctuary Puerto Cayo hotel for one night. Nice room on the beach but I was the only person in the hotel. The owner told me about a lodge up in the forest that was popular for birdwatching so off I went the next morning. Pacoche Lodge is tucked back in the bosque and was very interesting. Ana arranged for a South African guy named Victor to cook for me and he was very good. My cabin was airy and overlooked a ravine in the forest. Birds galore. I am at 108 new species. Ecuadorian Trogon and Whooping Motmot topped the list. Crickets and other various forest bugs lulled me to sleep. Mantled Howler monkeys woke me up at 5 am. One night was enough at the lodge so back down the hills to the beach and San Lorenzo, 10 mintues away.
I am at Gringo on the Beach hotel and Daniel is the owner. He is from Chicago and we have a lot to chat about. He gave me a very nice room with a balcony and I keep the doors open and listen to the waves  at night. Nice pool, beach, horses, coconut palms. San Lorenzo is a nice village. Shrimp for lunch again. Daniel made some great hotdogs last night for dinner.
For some reason no web pages or Google is able to 'locate' me here. Very strange.
Took a walk on the beach at 6:30 am and saw 3 Humpback whales offshore! Spectacular! So close to the beach too. They are a little early and I sent an email to Ben in Salinas at the whale museum.
Ecuador and Holland played today and ended in a tie. The cafe filled up with guys while I was eating lunch and then the TV came on. They are passionate about futbol here. At the school all the boys  were in their uniforms and were gathered for a presentation of some-sort. My spanish is improving but I could'nt understand what was going on. The uniforms were brightly colored and very clean.
Oh, I climbed up to the lighthouse today. Nice view of the ocean.
Time for a Pilsener and sunset.
nite-nite.

Montañita is a very popular surf/bar town and I passed right through. No gracias. I am in Puerto Lopez, a small fishing village just north of Montañita. Eduardo drove me here for $4. He's taking me to Agua Blanca tomorrow. Hotel Mandala is the nicest place in town but they could clean common areas a little better. There are 5 Great Danes- as in dogs, not nice Danish people. My room is fine for $36. Service sucks. Manuel, Manuel!!! Una màs!
Paid $40 for a day trip to Isla PLata. Left at 9 back at 5. Boat trip 26 miles offshore. Swells  to 15 feet. Beautiful!. 16 of us on the boat. We had the largest, most comfie boat. 4 elder Mormons from Salt Lake. Mucho fun people. Nazca boobies, bloobies dancing, frigates by the thousands. and 2 red footed boobies. I don't think I ever expected to see RFB's. It was rough hiking with the guide up to 700 feet and 3 hours in the ocean air. Worth every minute. It's the poor-man's Galapagos. Sir Franny Drake left his silver balls here in 1590-? or so. Elizabeth I was not amused.
 I have no idea where I am going next. San Lorenzo maybe. 40 miles north. Keith and Marilyn went to Latacunga in the Sierra and it was raining-flooding-like hell so I am going to stay on the coast a few more weeks. They were telling me about the Hummingbird Pyramids discovered last November in Manà, Ecuador. 1,000 + years old. Very unique. Google them, but keep in mind there are space cadets everywhere.  These pyramids were carved out of a mountain. I think they are aligned with Mount Shasta in California. Hey guys, if were gonna build this thing let's line it up with something 2,000 miles away. Joe, take this string and run. Oh, never mind, here comes that space ship again. You'll see what I mean if you watch the YOUTUBE video. http://www.human-resonance.org/hummingbird_pyramid.html

The garbage truck in Salinas had writing on it and said something like " Cholos, picking up your trash to keep your city clean. Google didn't have a translation for cholo. I asked Marilyn yesterday. It is a derogatory word that means scumbag, lowlife, hillbilly. People don't get upset so easily as they do in USA. They aren't thenthitive. Even the cholo smiles a lot. I LOVE these people and I haven't ever seen the REAL Ecuadorians in the Sierra.
Anywho, what a fascinating day. Buenas noches!

I will stay in Ayampe until Monday, then off to Mandala Hosteria in Puerto Lopez. Made reservation today- well I told them I will be there and they are holding the Colibri suite for me. This is a fascinating community. They police themselves even though there is a small poplice station. I dont have a key to my room- you dont have to lock anything.
 I hired Rene to take me birdwatching this morning. He arrived at 6.30 am. I am up to 86 new species. The  Choco toucan lives only in this región. Got it, along with another toucan and 25 other small birds which I would have never found without Rene. Fantástico¡
  Had dinner at Xanadu. An 65 year old hippie who has a beautiful home-restaurant-bar. Jerry and I chatted for a couple hours. He makes a hibiscus drink which goes great with vodka¡ Incedibly delicious. At another beach front restaurant-hostel, a little 7 year old girl named Violeta always greats me with a thumbs-up. She has so much personality and makes a blender juice drink with loads of sugar and asks if I want some. I decline politely.
I am learning about the people of Ecuador.  Along the coast they are very courteous. They complain about nothing. They accept what life provides for them. They dont wake up bitching about another day. They are truely content. I cant explain it well enough. Que será, será.  Tranquilo.
My jokes go over well in spanish as well. It feels good to make someone laugh, in Spanish. Each afternoon the cat and  I take a nap after chasing birds all morning. Me in ahammock, he on my binoculars.
Email me if you cant see my Flickr page. I put photos there.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/84231798@N07/

Salinas has been a fantastic city. With the exception of the asshole Americans I have met the people are very accomodating. Big fight at the bar Smokin. Brian from Minnesota will drive me to Ayampe tomorrow to La Buena Vida hotel/hostal.
I eat seafood everyday. Mora, a delicious drink made from blackberries which is served everywhere and very popular in Ecuador, is good with vodka¡ Imagine that¡ (spanish keyboard).
Today I had the pleasure to go birdwatching with the director of the Museo de Ballenas (whale museum) Ben Hasse. He has written several books on sea birds and is well known in Ecuador. Enzo, a student at the marine lab, went with us. The end of the península is called Chocolateria and is part of the Naval Base. They let Ben right through. Waved albatross, sooty shearwater, spotted dolphins, south american sealions. And there are boobies everywhere. On the beach, in the water, in the sky. Bloobies ( blue-footed-boobies) by the hundreds. The Albatross was amazing. Then we went to Ecuasal which are pools of water which produce salt by the tons. Again, they let Ben through the gate. Wilson's phalaropes by the thousands. Chilean flamingos where my target and there were about 100. I have never seen Baird's sandpiper which nest up by Barrow Alaska, but I saw one here. I am at 46 new species.  I am very happy with how things are going. My hotel room has an 18 foot ceiling and old colonial doors to two balconies.
I dont know what Ayampe will be like. Remote, for sure. They say there is WIFI. Off for a walk on the beach. Hasta luego.

Playas, Ecuador

I arrived in Playas on yesterday and will be moving on to Salinas tomorrow. Eric has driven me everywhere and he will take me to Salinas also. This hostal has been wonderful. Ocean breeze at night and I need no AC. Very quiet here, which is why  I am moving a little  sooner than planned. I have seen all the birds this área offers . There are Peruvian pelicans about 25% larger than our little brown ones. Little brown ones, I sound like George Bush. 

  Eric took me on a tour of Posorja. I wanted to stroll the streets but he advised I not do that. It is a fishing village (shrimp) and  very poor. The frigate birds swoop down for morsels. Fascinating. People stared at me in the car.

 I met a doctor while walking the beach this morning. He asked about my hernia! He was very kind and friendly, as are all the folks I have met. The sky has been mostly cloudy but that is OK as it keeps the temp down. I could see the Andes far to the east this morning. Damn, Im going up there. 

This keyboard is set on spanish so I cant type english well. I write mostly in spanish lately.

I love this country. Ill write again in a few days. I think Ill have shrimp tonight. Adios.

I am dealing with a little Atahualpa's revenge. It's pouring rain right now (Thursday 7am) and I can't get to the pharmacia for pepto bismal. I would have thought the rum would kill what e.coli was in the ice. I am learning fast.
I hired a bird guide yesterday and we went to Cerro Blanco preserve just outside the city. Every location has a guard at the entrance. Car dealers, preserves, schools,  stores- everything. I will not go birding by myself. Eduardo cost $15 for 4 hours. I gave him $20. The taxi for a 40 mile round trip was also $15. A flat screen TV cost $2,000. Anywho, Eduardo did not carry binoculars so I just considered him a companion as I was able to identify birds faster than he could. I am a really fucking good birder. Crossing a small wood bridge my fat ass broke through one of the boards. I offered to pay to repair it but when I paid the entrance fee afterward they gave me $6 back on a ten. I have learned to walk on the nails of a wood bridge, not the middle of the board. Saw Laughing falcon, which I have seen in Costa Rica, and 12 other species. It is very difficult to see birds in the Bosque. You hear them but you don't see them. A HUGE tarantula crossed my path right at my feet. Saw one snake. Eduardo is 5 feet tall and slipped under the spider webs. I took them in the face. Big spiders. Argiope types. Fuck.
Rain letting up but I may send out for my pepto pills. Jhony is making me some toast.
 Had my first coffee yesterday and the cafe gave me instant coffee! Jhony makes real coffee. Strong and black, like my men.
 There are more copy shops around the University here than anywhere on Earth.  Shops lined up next to each other. How do you choose one with so many? I will try to get a picture. Printers must cost a lot.
Going to Playas tomorrow morning. May be off line for a few days. No worries. Adios.