The hotel in Rioacha had a taxi service pick me up at the hotel at 9am for a ride to Valledupar. It was a new Toyota Camry and I sat up front. Three passengers in the back. We passed close to the Venezuelan border and stopped at a small village to buy gasoline. Cheap Venezuelan gasoline. The streets of the village were black with spilled petrol. They poured the gas into a tube through a cloth into a filter and into the car. I have never seen such filth and pollution. One match and this town was off the map. Benzene-laden children played in the streets. Finally we were on our way through the many check points where guards carry heavy assault rifles like the kids in the USA like to take to a movie or the mall. We arrived in Valledupar at 12 noon. I checked into Hostal Provincia and was met by the owners, who were very helpful in my birding pursuits. Valledupar has a music scene and the music is called Vallenato, They are famous for the accordion music. Not any accordion. Not Schmenge Brothers Yosh and Stan. This is a small accordion and they play it very well. I enjoyed it very much. Cristina and Miguel at the hostal set me up with a trip up the mountain to go birding near the Proaves Reserve in the Serrania Perijá. I took a small bus to Villa Adelaida in Manaure. It was a Sunday, which is family day in Latin America and the place was packed. Live music, food, people, people, people. I was intoduced to the owner who made sure I was happy. They gave me a room overlooking the valley and food- soup with chicken and...? It was good. I met the police chief who promised my security. They arranged for a mototaxi to pick me up at 5:30 am and take me up the mountain. I would walk down. I needed to be at about 4,000 ft for the endemic birds. I dipped on all of them, but it was still a wonderful walk down with a list of 73 species. I did see a Solitary eagle which blessed the sky. Two bat Falcons preened as I observed them. By noon I was back in Valledupar and had planned a visit to Ecolodge Los Besotes. I had met the owner/biologist and he had invited me but seemed a little put-off when I called so I decided to skip an overnight there. I arranged a 3:30 am pick-up for a ride to Mompox. Toyota Hilux truck and me in the back seat. We were in Mompox by 8 am. I checked into La Casa Amarilla, suggested by my friend Lorraine Caputo (as was Provincial), and was given a very nice, large room. It is owned by a friend of Lorraine's who is an UK expat within a radio show from Bogota. He sent me a message to welcome me, which was very gracious. Mompox is a colonial village along the Magdalena river. A local girl married a Marquis from Spain way back when. Very nice village. Hot. 93 when the sun shines, which it didn't much while I was there. At dusk the bats would come out and birds would fly down river. I sat and watched, in awe, as this went on. Very large bats swarmed the lights after 8 pm. Wow. Lightening storms light up the sky in the distance each evening. I went on a boat ride to the Cienagas (swamp) with a pair of UK gals who were fun to be with. I pointed out all the birds we saw, which they enjoyed. To the locals, any large bird is an aguila (eagle). We saw three species of hawks. There was a Jazz Fest planned starting Thursday. With every room in town booked they were able to slide me in for an extra night so I could see the opening. They moved me into a larger room! I recommend coming to Mompox for the October Festival. And do stay at Casa Amarilla. Although I had only one night of music, it was enough for me. I was in bed by 10pm. I was up at 5 am to check out and catch a bus to Bucaramanga. A 8 hour adventure down very bad roads. I finnally checked into a very nice hotel, BGA Hotel, around 4. Hotels here aren't designed very well. Nor were they in Ecuador or Perú. Where they place a light switch makes no sense at all. They are placed where the electrician (maybe) finds it easier to put, not where it should be. In BGA Hotel they were under the tables, which were mounted to the walls. The first thing I do when I check in somewhere in locate the switches. Not easy sometimes. When I wake up to pee in the middle of the night I have to remember where I am and where the switches are.
Bucaramanga is a beautiful city of about 500,000. Located between mountain ranges, it is a modern city of high-rise condos. My friend Donna McCoy had given my number to a friend of hers who lives here and he called me to set up a meeting. I was tired the first day so he picked me up at 1pm the next day and took me to Punta Diamante, which is a exclusive resort, hotel, country club, on top of a plateau. Sergio Torres has English language schools here and does very well. I bought him lunch at a Peruvian restaurant and he introduced me to a lady who runs the Spa. He knew everyone here, including the hotel owner, and he introduced me to so many people. We had a fantastic afternoon. People offered me a place to stay and insisted I call when on my travels. I intend to do so. We ended the evening at a Salsa Bar. I had so much fun. I am very grateful to Sergio and his friends. I needed to move on though and San Gil was next. A 4 hour bus trip as the roads were thick with travelers for the holiday weekend. We passed through height mountain passes and I checked in to look for light switches around 4 pm. A very cheap hostal on the river, but comfie. San Gil is not for me. Next day I took a taxi to Barichara. Barichara is said to be Colombia's most beautiful village. I agree. I checked into ArtePolis Hostal and found a little bit of haven. My room is large with an outside bathroom and a view of the hills. I like it here and will stay for possibly a week. This morning I took a 6 hour birding hike along the Camino Real to Guane. I added a few endemic birds. I adore this village. Beautiful scenery. Two kittens to sleep with. It is quiet here and has lots of birds. People have texture in Colombia. Ecuador as well. Texture is important in a person. Think about it.
I have decided to try to get the Scarlet ibis and the Jabiru stork in the Llanos region. The duck I missed is also there. Ecolodge Juan Solito Casanare. This is where the Anacondas live. The rivers here flow to the Orinoco. And so will I. I was warned about the dangers. Hahahaha.
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