Sunday, June 1, 2014

I am back in Quito after a trip to the rain forest on the western slope. My trip began at San Jorge Lodge Quito. http://www.hostsanjorge.com.ec  It is up in the mountains of northwest Quito at an elevation of about 10,300 ft. It used to be owned by the first president of Ecuador, Eloy Alfaro. Now owned as a reserve by Jorge Cruz, a veterinarian and artist. My room overlooked the valley. From the trails you could see Quito far below. The lodge was beautiful and the staff very helpful. I was there because at 6:30 am the next day a guide would pick us up and take us on the Nono-Mindo road to the next San Jorge lodge, Tandayapa. Dixie Sommers from  D.C. joined me at the lodge and we had a very nice dinner together. There is so much history to the Quito lodge. An old Inca trail is on the reserve.
The next morning Luis Chasig (Alcivar) arrived to guide us on the Mindo-Nono road, which is very popular with birders. The road follows the Alambi river which was in minor flood stage as it was raining steadily.  First we stopped at the home of a generous gentleman who has a beautiful cottage with humming bird feeders everywhere. We stood in his kitchen as the hummers buzzed by. Mountain velvet-breast was fist to show. Birds were everywhere.Crimson-mantled woodpeckers are stunning. We visited a cemetery for rufous-breasted chat tyrant. Didn't see it there but a few were just down the road. The birding on the old dirt road was phenomenal. We finally located the  Collared Inca hummingbird and I saw a purple-backed thornbill, which is very difficult to find. Dixie got lots of good pictures of birds.
We arrived at the San Jorge Tandayapa lodge and were dropped off below to take a path up. The van went up with our bags and they were in my room when I went in. On the path up the masked trogon and crimson-rumped toucanet were located. We came upon the open-air dining area and there must have been 15 hummingbird feeders around the gardens.Each feeder had a swarm of hummers. I was flabergasted. It was truly magical to sit and eat lunch and watch hummers everywhere. I added 27 new species of hummingbirds alone to my list. Booted racket-tails, purple-throated woodstars, Andean emerald, green-crowned brilliant. The list went on. Luis knew every bird and their calls.
The trails at Tandayapa are excellent. There is a meadow, secondary forest and primary forest. The altitude was about 7,200 ft and so it was much warmer than Quito. I stayed 2 nights here. I saw 76 new species of birds here with the help of Luis. Black and chestnut eagle was a huge plus, as was golden-headed quetzal. Fantástico. Luis had left so Dixie and I hit the trails ourselves and  added a
few new species thanks to her photography. During dinner an Olinguito came down from the trees to a feeder with bananas. This species of kinkajou was just discovered in 2013.  I fucking saw it! http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Olinguito
Near by, in the mountains, it is said that Atahualpa hid his gold from the Spaniards. I have a picture of the 3 hills where it is said the hoard  is located. Tandayapa is off a rugged road tucked away in the cloud forest and is a heaven to behold.
At noon my driver came to take me back to Quito, 2 hours away. Claudio has a great personality and he took the time to make sure I understood what he was saying. My spanish has vastly improved. I asked him what he does in his spare time and he said fútbol. I invited him to lunch and to watch the game between Ecuador and Mexico. Ecuador lost but it was nice to share the enthusiasm of fans and watch the game with a compadre in Plaza Fuch.
Off to Otavalo tomorrow. I love this country.








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