Ban Ki Moon asked Israel and Palestine to stop fighting today. That was nice of him.
And now for something completely different.

I Left Guayaquil at 6 am and headed toward Olon and Montañita. After a brief deboarding along the highway so the men could be searched for drugs, - I waved my Passport a lot- we arrived at 9 am. I explored the surfing town for a couple hours and had breakfast along the beach. People were talking about a plane being shot down. I smiled, sternly, then read BBC.

A Scotsman on a horse rode by..

Montañita smells of piss and vomit on a Friday morning. I finally had enough and took a taxi to Ayampe. The owners of La Buena Vida are Keith and Marilyn and their 3 kids. http://surflabuenavida.com  This was my second visit here. Marilyn gave me a warm hug and I met the rest of the guests. Jack and Boone from Virginia, Their son and his wife and kid from Bogota. Mark and Sheena from Dubai, Titus from Amsterdam and Marshall from Louisiana. We were joined by a doctor and his GF from Oregon. Nice group. I took Sheena on walk into the Jocotoco reserve and we saw two species of trogons in one tree. I told her husband to buy her binoculars for Xmas. She's hooked on birding.
The whales off shore were a spectacle. Every time I looked out to sea I saw whales breaching. We all took a whale-watching tour in Salango and ate lunch at a restaurant that asshole Bourdain ate at. Octopus and barnacles on the menu. I had shrimp and squid. 8 people had seafood and beer for $92. Wonderful experience. The boat almost tipped but it was fun. Next day Boone, me, the young doctor and Devin went to buy Panama hats in Montecristi. The doc is a pediatric oncologist in training. Glad he isn't my oncologist, he seemed confused. Nice guy and we all had fun.
Marshall is a 36 year-old exploring new drugs in South America. Good luck Marshall. He said pot cures cancer and I promised him it does not, without revealing too much. I was surprised  the doctor didn't discern my condition. I did say I had a hernia when they asked me to help pull in a fishing net. The doc and his girl #2 brought beer from Portland, Or. Why?
I enjoyed them all and we all had a lot of laughs. Marilyn explained that because I left Ecuador and returned they stamped my passport with a new 90 day visa. So tempting to stay but I need to go see my doctors. Bus back to Guayaquil.

Ecuador -356 new species. Perú -103 new species. North America 408 species over 45 years, Costa Rica 153. Life total 1020. I saw more species of birds in 3 months than I had seen in 45 years. I am very satisfied and thank all my guides. This has been an incredible trip into so many ecosystems. I have experienced everything from dessert scrub to sleet and jungle. I have seen life forms that have absolutely amazed me. I have eaten food which had more flavor than anything I had ever tasted- except Cui. I never fell off, out, over or tumbled. I talked to people whom have been dead for 3,000 years. I was in awe of their legacies. I cried at their creations. I was deeply saddened by a team's defeat. I paid a child for his knowledge. I listened to language, music and laughter that is a vital part of Ecuador. I envy them. I will miss them.
Thank you, everyone of you, for touching my life with your enthusiasm and kindness. I have met so many interesting people from all over the planet. Most importantly, I learned a lot.
adiós

I fell asleep for a moment on the train to Ollantaytambo. I asked a taxi driver if he knew where my hotel was and he said  $25. I said 'you're nuts'. I would have walked if it hadn't been uphill. I paid another driver $6. It was very windy in the valley. Spring is coming so peaches, pears and plums are blooming. The streets of Ollantaytambo are old inca roads. Some of the houses are built on Inca walls. There are aqueducts running down many of the streets. The Incas were great engineers. Water still runs down from the mountains through the streets after 550 years. At night you smell different wood burning and the aromas take you back in time. Brugmansia blooms, sometimes called Datura wrongly, are the most heavenly scent at night. I could stand by one for 20 minutes.
But before all that, Machu Pic'chu. I caught the bus at 6:15 am. How people climb this mountain, much less a bus is perplexing. You go through the gate and there it is in all its splendor. The sun started to peek over the mountain and light up Huyna Pic'chu. I can't describe it adequately. How and why did they abandon this marvelous city. Master engineers. Everyone should see this city. It was a clear sky and amazing views from every step I took. There were also 1800 other people, mostly from Europe. It was hard to get photos without people in them. It is sacred so the signs warn you of improper behavior. At one point the path narrows along the side of a 400 ft. cliff. I tried to turn around but the whistle blew and I heard "one way". I made it down to the next level. I would have been an ostracized Inca. This vertigo I have has gotten bad. I could't climb up to the ruins behind my hotel in Ollantaytambo. I would have fallen right through the roof of my hotel. A Canadian guy passed me and I told him 'good luck' -I bought him a beer when I saw him on the street later. Everywhere along the Sacred Valley are more ruins. Some are pre-Inca. Ollantaytambo is filled with ruins. I  was allowed to walk along the RR tracks and along the river to an old bridge. The Urubamba flows fast and the Torrent ducks loved it. I walked up to an old quarry and old mud house 3 or 4 hundred years old. All the hills are terraced. Most are not used as folks today aren't that agile, I suppose. I couldn't believe some of the terraces up so high on a steep slope. The snow capped peaks and glaciers stand in contrast to the dry mountains. The quintessential Andes vista. Spectacular  does not say enough. Giant hummingbirds everywhere. I forgot to take some water along and as Rozane Rozanadana said " I thought I was gonna die". It was about 35F when I left and it was 75F when I came down 4 hours later. A fantastic hike that I stumbled upon on my own.  The Pinkuylluna ruins were on my list to visit but it was to high up. The local people are direct descendants of the people who built all this marvel and I was in awe of them. Such beauty and spirit. Pura vida.
I had a drinking buddy named Bobby who met me each afternoon. I had a beer and he a bowl of water. I don't know why but dogs would look at me and come to me. Some would follow me everywhere. Bobby didn't run with the local gang of wild dogs. They took on the behavior of a wolf pack. I had to chase them away. Bobby sat under my feet or against my leg.
 An old hunch-backed man would carry a log past me then a few minutes later, another. For an hour this went on.People carry everything on their backs so when they reach old aged they are haunched over. I wanted to help that old man but soon a young boy with a wheel-barrow came and helped him. I got emotional.
My local bartender took kindly toward me. I showed up yesterday and told him I wanted to buy the dog a bowl of water. When I paid my tab he said the bowl of water was $20. I liked him.
I took a taxi from Ollantaytambo back tom Cusco. 1.5 hour drive. He told me $22 and I gave him $40. Along the way he stopped and turned around and I was puzzled. He got out of the car and I was a little nervous. He introduced me to his wife and 5 year-old son. Such smiles. He stopped along the route and pointed out nice scenery and gave me history lessons. He deserved the $40. We came upon an accident where a taxi hit a donkey. The animal lay in the road alive and the car was nearly totaled. Sad, someone depended upon that donkey for a lot of work. They haul heavy loads. Donkeys are a necessity.  I admire how the local folks live. I hate to leave Perú. Such majesty in everything.
My last night in Cusco. Off to Inka Grill for a drink. Back to dirty Guayaquil. Nit,nite.

Chigger bites are driving me crazy. They itch like hell.  They are worse than Scully/Stanton chiggers. My ankles and waist are covered in bites from the jungle trip. Worth every bite! What an adventure.  Went with http://www.wildwatchperu.com/en/   and Luis Zuñiga whose family owns property around Pillcopata, Perù. He had to pick up a Belgian family at the airport at 6:30 am so he sent his assistant Simon to fetch me at 6am and we went to a lake 30 minutes from Cusco. Aplomado falcon was one of my first birds. Puna ibis, many colored rush tyrant, Cinerious harrier, white tufted grebe, Puna teal, Giant hummingbird, on and on. The Belgies joined us, Luke, Vivian and their 22 year-old son Ramses (the first). He was a good photographer. They weren't real birders but they had enthusiasm and never slowed  the birding. Bearded mountaineer hummers are a fantastic find. On our way to Cock-of-the rock lodge we found red and white antpitta. Damn hard bird to see. Toward dark, Lyre tail nightjar and Andean potoo. From 11,000 ft down to 4,000ft and dinner at the lodge. My cabin was comfortable. There was only candle light to shower by. They started a generator for the dinner hall briefly. I slept to the sound of a river ( Guadeloupe?).  5 am out the door to go see cock-of-the-rock. I am not impressed by that bird as much as most are. Highland motmot was more impressive, as was Yungas manakin. Versicolored barbets are a treat. We drove to the next lodge in Pillcopata. This is the gate to the Amazon and as such there is little accommodation. Our lodge was merely comfortable. The birds were amazing. Blue and yellow macaw, scarlet macaw, chestnut-fronted macaw and blue-headed macaw. Went to a pond on Luis's family property and saw about 10 hoatzins. Beautiful place where they farm pineapples and pacu and tilapia. A lot of coca growers in the area also. There were fragrant balsa tress which are like magnolias on steroids. The scratching started that night. Up at 5:30 and down the road for bluish fronted jacamars. Lots of them around. Araçaris and black fronted nunbirds. Thick with birds. 87 new species on this trip and I am officially over 1,000 on my life list. At one point we walked a stream that became a narrow cave with bats. Fascinating as they whizzed by my face. Found a nesting Lyre-tailed nightjar on a roof along a river. That's impressive.
The drive back was spectacular. We drove up above the clouds to a cloudless sky. Pre-Inca burial silos. I bought some bracelets off some local young girls. Full moon rose above the snowy peaks of the Andes. Wow.
The local people make their own bricks with straw and mud for houses. The Andean flickers build nests in holes in the house so they set wires to trap them. Very strange to see flicker corpses hanging from the houses.
My guide Luis Zuniga liked to stalk single species and play back their songs to bring them in. It got a little annoying and after lunch I took off on my own. He sent the van to pick me up.  He finds the birds but I am not a fan of his tactics. Nice guy but he could learn a lot from Luis Alcivar. Smile, Luis, you are the best.
Arrived at Hotel Ruinas at 7 pm and went to Inca Grill for dinner. Met the Belgians there, very nice folks through the whole trip. I was stopped by a 10 year-old boy wanting to sell me a knitted hat for 10 Soles.  As he followed me he recited the presidents of the USA backward starting with Obomber. I gave him 10 Soles and told him he was smart, and keep the hat. I have never liked kids until I came to Ecuador and Perù. They aren't spoiled brats here.
I met a 30-something black woman at the train station this morning and we started chatting. She was doing volunteer work in the jungle and with a group going to Machu Picchu. As we boarded the train we discovered her seat was next to me. She had a cough and took a lot of homeopathic shit. Why does anyone get on a Vistadome train through the most scenic area you can imagine and go to sleep?
She wasn't very interesting but she sure as hell learned a lot about birds while she was awake! She wrote it all down too!  About 10 middle aged gay guys from the USA got on the train at Ollantaytambo and misbehaved. I wanted to throw "Joey" from the train- Miss Thang. Oh, I just love birdth too!
Aguas Calientes is very tourist filled. Damn Germans won the Mundial. Too many of them here. Beautiful area but the town is a tourist trap. Might get back on the train tomorrow afternoon and go to Ollantaytambo bird lodge called Apu Lodge. It's only a 2 houre ride.
Off to Machu Picchu tomorrow. I may go for sunrise. Moon setting and sun rising over the Sacred Valley.  Buenas noches.

I haven't had a glass of milk for almost 3 months and I have drank a half gallon a day for 25 years. Maybe thats another reason I am at 187 lbs. No milk and I walk about 10 miles a day. Maybe the scale is wrong but I know I have lost weight. I may have a beer at the Mundial game later today.
Cusco is fascinating. I get winded very quickly and drink a lot of water. Tourists are eveywhere. Girls are dressed in traditional clothes and carry small lambs. They beg to have their picture taken and then ask for money. I pass them quickly. I have been offered about 30 women in the last 3 days. Usually two girls at once for a 'massage'.
My walk today took me to the local market of clothes and food. The vegetables are a sight to see. I wanted some grapes to eat but I don't trust the washing of food. The meat hangs and lays on counters in the open air. Nothing is refrigerated.
There are ceramic bulls on the roofs of houses. Pucarà they are called. They guard the houses and bring good luck. Another Inca tradition but changed from llamas to bulls with the Spaniards. The Sacsayhuaman ruins are absolutely mind-boggling. How did those little people moves those huge stones? Where are they buried? There must be a few skeletons under those rocks. $25 for a ticket. Took a picture of women with a llama and they almost attacked me because I only had 2 Sols on me and they wanted 3. People don't take no for and answer here or in Ecuador.
Bought the train ticket ($87 Vistadome) and Machu Picchu ticket ($50) yesterday. I go next Sunday.
Last night I was out until 11 pm! I go for alpaca steak each night at Inka Grill and I stopped at a Pisco bar afterward. There was a band playing progressive jazz and the kid on the sax was unbelievably good. He's about 24 and very talented, as were the others in the band. I just saw him in the plaza and wanted to say something but didn't. Bottles of Pisco lined the walls. I had one drink and I think there was ginger and orange in it, all fresh. Met a Brit couple who have been traveling the world and just arrived here from Easter Islands. Amazing folks. I did not realize the flag of Hawaii has the Union Jack on it. The shit you learn. Also ran into the couple of republicans from Arizona who sat next to me on the plane. Wealthy folks and they asked me to join them. They could not quite understand why I would just go places to watch birds. " Why do you watch birds?" Eat your onion soup you stupid ....
"Why do you travel alone?".....so I don't have to put up with...... They didn't even know there were different trains to Machu Picchu or where they were staying. All part of the tour. Ick.
Tomorrow I am being picked up at 5:30am for my 4 day trip to Manu Bio Reserve in the Amazon. Met with the bird guide last night and he informed me there will be a family of 3 from Belgium with us. I asked if they are birders and he said yes. I flat out told him that I will not go if they aren't birders. Should be interesting. He was amazed at my bird lists and wanted to know where I got a spreadsheet of Peruvian birds. Forgot I have to email him the link to Avibase.
Game time shortly. Go Brasil! Beat those sour Krauts. Miss Merkel is pissed at Obama. Jajajaja....

Last night the Ecuadorian Phil Silvers bought me a few drinks. He sang and had a wonderful voice. Unique group with a few Scottish in the mix. 4:30am came way to quickly. My flight to Lima was delayed by almost 2 hours, which meant I would miss my connection. They gave me a first class seat from Lima and I finally arrived at 3:30. Stunning Andes. I could see where the dry, desert-like slopes began and the paramo ended. The pilot had to steer a path through the mountains to the Cusco approach. Bought the Peru bird guide for $110. I have studying to do. No gasoline subsidies here. $15 taxi to Hostel Qolqampata. I am up the hill from the plaza and it was a slow walk back up. I feel something here. It is as thought the mountains greeted me. At 11,400ft the sky is crystal clear. Pachakuti made this his capital. Manco Capac was the first Inca. I will have to read more of the history. This city is fascinating. I feel connected. Pachamama likes me.
I strolled down the stone road to the plaza and the sun was just starting to set. I was offered a massage by a pretty girl and declined. The faces of the people here are different, once again. Aymara? Very Inca-shaped profiles. They seem to be more robust in stature. Beautiful eyes that can tell many stories.
I stumbled into Inka Grill to watch the Mundial. Sad that Costa Rica lost. For my first meal and drink in Peru I discovered the perfect place. Havana Club rum was tempting but I settled for red wine and water. Grilled Alpaca is so delicious. Very tender. Ted Turner needs to farm Alpacas as well. The bartender,Garson,  was extremely professional and polite. I finished with a cheesecake with a local berry sauce. I will have to find these berry bushes. After dark, 5:30, I walked the plaza and listened to an military band. I got emotional again. Walked up the narrow stone street and passed a teenager party at a bar. Several kids said hello to me. Cusco is very touristy and up-scale. I love it. Cold tonight, about 37.
I have contracted, verbally, with http://www.wildwatchperu.com/en/    Luis Zuñiga will be my guide for 4 days in Manù preserve in the Amazon. This is closer and less expensive then going to jungle lodges in Ecuador. Includes everything for $540. Several macaws and hoatzins are on my list. It leeaves on Wednesday which breaks up my week. I will do Machu Picchu next Sunday through Wednesday. I still have to buy my train ticket also.
Off to bed- it's 8pm.

I am back in Guayaquil, which means my grand tour of Ecuador is over. There have been so many moments when I stopped and said to myself 'I am here and now'. The fire juggler in the road at the stop light who drooped a flaming pin on a car. The young boy and girl who met on a bus and within 2 hours he had his tongue in her mouth and cuddled in her arms by the end of the trip. Young girls fawn over boys and boys move in quick. Driving through a rainbow in the mountains. Cuyes roasting on an open fire, Jack Frost fucking with my nose at 14,000ft. Wonderful memories. The van ride to Guayaquil this morning was a surprising $50, and not $12, because it was just me. Josė was  a nice driver. There was not a cloud in the sky up high in Cajas National Park. I could see Cotopaxi 120 miles away. In 1 hour went from 10,500 to sea level.
Cuenca is a city I could live in. Very clean, perfect climate. It was 46 when I woke up this morning and here in Guayas it is 87. I will miss the 'Merican bar called Inca Lounge in Cuenca. Had nice meals and drinks there watching Mundial.
My birding trip to Yunguilla and Giron with Carlos Lara was very enjoyable. 10 new species including Rainbow Starfrontlet hummer. Also, Pale-capped Brush Finch which was just re-discovered a few years ago. I have seen very rare birds and am lucky. Carlos liked to call in birds with recordings which is not quite my style. By far Luis Alcivar has been the best bird guide here in Ecuador. A perfect bird-charmer.
The Eljuri family, Lebanese bankers, are probably the wealthiest family in Ecuador. They have a house modeled after Russian architecture.  The Yuguilla valley is where the wealthy build homes in a moderate, dry climate. That is where I would live. Most beautiful valley I have ever seen.
My trip to Peru begins Saturday. Back up to the very cold Andes. I still have to find a bird book and guide. I just finished reading  Hiram Bingham's 1911 story of discovery. Cusco will be very interesting. I hope I can breath at that altitude-11,200 ft. I have been that high several times already and learned you just have to move slowly.
My room is ready. Manso Boutique Hotel on the river. Hasta tarde.