I am back in Guayaquil, which means my grand tour of Ecuador is over. There have been so many moments when I stopped and said to myself 'I am here and now'. The fire juggler in the road at the stop light who drooped a flaming pin on a car. The young boy and girl who met on a bus and within 2 hours he had his tongue in her mouth and cuddled in her arms by the end of the trip. Young girls fawn over boys and boys move in quick. Driving through a rainbow in the mountains. Cuyes roasting on an open fire, Jack Frost fucking with my nose at 14,000ft. Wonderful memories. The van ride to Guayaquil this morning was a surprising $50, and not $12, because it was just me. JosÄ— was a nice driver. There was not a cloud in the sky up high in Cajas National Park. I could see Cotopaxi 120 miles away. In 1 hour went from 10,500 to sea level.
Cuenca is a city I could live in. Very clean, perfect climate. It was 46 when I woke up this morning and here in Guayas it is 87. I will miss the 'Merican bar called Inca Lounge in Cuenca. Had nice meals and drinks there watching Mundial.
My birding trip to Yunguilla and Giron with Carlos Lara was very enjoyable. 10 new species including Rainbow Starfrontlet hummer. Also, Pale-capped Brush Finch which was just re-discovered a few years ago. I have seen very rare birds and am lucky. Carlos liked to call in birds with recordings which is not quite my style. By far Luis Alcivar has been the best bird guide here in Ecuador. A perfect bird-charmer.
The Eljuri family, Lebanese bankers, are probably the wealthiest family in Ecuador. They have a house modeled after Russian architecture. The Yuguilla valley is where the wealthy build homes in a moderate, dry climate. That is where I would live. Most beautiful valley I have ever seen.
My trip to Peru begins Saturday. Back up to the very cold Andes. I still have to find a bird book and guide. I just finished reading Hiram Bingham's 1911 story of discovery. Cusco will be very interesting. I hope I can breath at that altitude-11,200 ft. I have been that high several times already and learned you just have to move slowly.
My room is ready. Manso Boutique Hotel on the river. Hasta tarde.
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